n some years, snow stays by the side of the Aurlandsfjellet road all summer.
n some years, snow stays by the side of the Aurlandsfjellet road all summer.

Winterizing of campervan

Winterizing of campervan

Winterizing of campervan

Whether the campervan is winterproof or winterized makes a big difference.
Winterizing a campervan is crucial for ensuring it can be used safely and comfortably during cold weather.
One important aspect of winterizing is ensuring the vehicle is well-insulated and equipped with good heating.
However, this alone is not enough to prevent damage caused by freezing temperatures.
In particular, the waste water tanks are at high risk of freezing because they are often mounted on the outside underbody of the motorhome.
To prevent freezing, it is essential to properly insulate the waste water tank and add heating if necessary. You also have to make sure that the water pipes don’t freeze. Otherwise, the water can quickly freeze, leading to a loss of self-sufficiency.

Winterproof vs. winterized
The distinction between “winterproof” and “winterized” may seem minor, but it makes a huge difference. The EN 1646-1 standard establishes the criteria for what qualifies as a winterized motorhome. It’s worth noting that the temperature measurements specified in the standard are always taken in the air of the camper, one meter above the ground and in the middle of the vehicle.

Manufacturers use the two terms to refer to grades II and III as defined in the DIN standards EN 1645-1 for caravans and EN 1646-1 for motorhomes, for which there is a precisely prescribed test procedure with four phases:

When is a campervan winterproof (Grade II)?

During the cooling process, all windows and doors of the campervan are left open for 10 hours. This brings down the temperature of the campervan to 0°C. All openings are closed once the cooling is complete and the standard heating is activated. If the temperature inside the campervan reaches 20°C within 2 hours, it is considered suitable for winter.

Phase 1 – cooling down:
The test vehicle is cooled down to 0°C over a period of at least ten hours. For this, all doors and windows are opened to cool down the vehicle completely.

Phase 2 – heating up:
The aim is to heat up the interior of the test vehicle as quickly as possible from a starting temperature of 0°C. The centrally located measuring point, one metre above the interior floor in the middle of the living area, must heat up to +20°C within two hours, whereby the temperature difference at five other measuring points inside the vehicle must not exceed 7°C.

If the vehicle passes the grade II test procedure, is qualifies as “winterproof”.


When is a campervan winterised (Grade III)?

All windows and doors of the campervan are opened for 10 hours to cool it down completely at a temperature of minus 15°C. After that, all the openings are closed and the standard heating is activated. The interior of the campervan must reach a temperature of 20°C within 4 hours, and the temperature is recorded at 5 additional measuring points to ensure that the deviation does not exceed 7°C. Additionally, the water system is completely filled up one hour after the heating test. After another hour, it is checked whether the water can run smoothly everywhere. It is essential to ensure that frost does not form in the entire water system, including the waste water tank. The vehicle is considered winterproof only when the above tests are successfully completed.

Phase 1 – cooling down:
The test vehicle is cooled down to -15°C over at least ten hours. For this, all doors and windows are opened to cool down the vehicle completely.

Phase 2 – heating up:
The aim is to heat the interior of the test vehicle as quickly as possible from a starting temperature of -15°C. The centrally located measuring point, one meter above the interior floor in the middle of the living area, must heat up to +20°C within four hours, whereby the temperature difference at five other measuring points inside the vehicle must not exceed 7°C.

Phase 3 – stabilisation time:
After a one-hour stabilization period, during which the test vehicle is kept at an interior temperature of +20°C by the heater, the water tanks are filled.

Phase 4 – plumbing test:
After a further hour, all the plumbing and taps are tested to make sure they are clear and functional, i.e. the water inside them hasn’t frozen.

If the vehicle passes the grade III test procedure, it qualifies as “winterized”.

Special thanks to

Since acquiring our sailboat, we have collaborated with Victron Energy and Scanpotec. We're excited about our upcoming partnership with [BEEEP].

Special thanks to

Since acquiring our sailboat, we have collaborated with Victron Energy and Scanpotec. We're excited about our upcoming partnership with [BEEEP].

Special thanks to

Since acquiring our sailboat, we have collaborated with Victron Energy and Scanpotec. We're excited about our upcoming partnership with [BEEEP].